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Keitha
I asked them to write their opinion about our AB Side Pull and this is what they had to say.
Please visit the LONE STAR EQUINE RESCUE
Amy Burris is one of the many Trainers for LSER in Texas
I have ridden for at least 38 of my 40 years. I am female, so not able to utilize strength or brawn when working with horses. My understanding of the horse has evolved over the years and been influenced by the great riders John Lyons, Monty Roberts, Durwood Kelley and my grandfather Sidney Lee Burris. I have learned over many years to base my relationship with any horse on the principles of mutual cooperation and respect. My riding style has evolved to one that utilizes balance and the horses natural athletic ability and intelligence. After riding and competing, being trained and training in a variety of disciplines, I feel my riding style has become a combination of the best from each. I choose not to rely on the use of any man made rigging that requires a horse to respond in spite of his current ability, balance, conditioning or understanding of what is required of him.
The combinations of tack and equipment I utilize allow for enhanced communication between horse and rider. I have always liked the concept of the halter/bridle for handling young colts, and tuning older horses. The reason here is pretty obvious, no untacking during breaks especially when covering long distance, therefore ease and convenience. Unfortunately the only halter bridles that I have used/seen were heavy harness leather or nylon, very bulky, very heavy, hot, and sweaty. These always seemed more uncomfortable for my horse, and it seemed better to just use a rope halter under a regular bridle, or pack a halter in with me.
So when I saw Keitha's halter bridle, I got excited naturally. I love rope halters! However, having used a bosal/hackamore/mecate (not to be mistaken for any form of mechanical hackamore), I had always been frustrated with the fact the there was not a direct pull side to side when 'plow-reining' or two-handing a horse. The pull came from a knot underneath the chin and a smart horse could learn to "cheat" and turn his head at an angle when being requested to turn, that would result in his body following in an unorganized manner. I have for years now used the sidepull. I have used the ones with the lariat rope across the nose, the kind that has a snaffle bit connected to the rig which gives both sidepull and snaffle bit control. I really like the sidepull nosepiece which I purchase off of EBAY that was made from nylon rope and has two knots across the nose piece which I hooked to my own rig and chin strap. (But no halter...)
That is why I asked Keitha if she could attach the nose piece which was already there, to the chin "strap" piece, which would connect directly to the reins so I would have a direct pull! Then we had the polyester rope sidepull with a halter! This was the only one I have found anywhere that uses a sturdy yet soft rope that handles well. It is a halter, a bridle, and a sidepull, with the bonus of having reins and lead like a mecate rope only easily detachable! Exactly the design that I wanted!
I have used this on ex-barrel racers, young unbroke colts, an ex-race horse who "takes the bit in his mouth and runs off with the rider...", a 30 year-old former ranch and roping horse who has absolutely one of the toughest mouths I have seen! I don't have the pleasure of riding any of these horses in an enclosed arena or round pen, only open pasture, cedars, rocks, and hills. The horses I ride with the Arthur - Burris Side Pull end up with power brakes and power steering. Even the older horses with bad habits. I am so pleased with the results!
"What makes the Arthur - Burris different from other Side Pulls?"
I like the fact that it is a soft polyester rope, very comfortable for my horse. It is sturdy enough to be safe in those panic situations, yet not bulky and heavy; therefore, ideal for covering many miles. It is washable so I am assured not to transfer colds, fungus etc. from horse to horse. The reins are the perfect weight, I find the weight is different from the weight of leather and seems to actually aid in encouraging a more natural headset. They are very easy to handle with or without gloves. Without the bit, I find the horse able to concentrate better on my body positioning and leg aids which promotes a more natural, balanced response and performance.
"What about when a horse bolts?"
Lets break down what happens for both horse and rider simultaneously when a horse spooks and bolts...
RIDER
1. The rider may be startled and get off balance.
2. The rider is holding the reins, attached to a bit of varying degrees of severity based on the length of the shank if there is one.
3. The rider's natural reaction is to grab a tighter hold of the reins and pull to prevent the horse from using the flight reaction and running off from whatever startled it. A basic natural reaction.
HORSE
1. The horse sees something "spooky".
2. His natural reaction is to freeze, in order not to draw attention to himself, then identify the fear factor involved and react accordingly with fight or flight.
3. As he freezes in place, the horse immediately feels pain in his mouth (or under his chin if the rider uses a mechanical hackamore). He associates this pain as being from the spooky thing. (They both happened at the same time right!)
4. He decides that the spooky thing has caused the pain in his head and he swings his head sideways or up or down to relieve the pain. All this poor horse knows at this point is he better run because the spooky thing has all of a sudden become the rider on the back that is causing pain in his mouth and thrown him off balance. The horse, at this point can't, remember where or what the real spooky thing is! Thus we have a horse that bolts blindly away with or without the rider... The next time this horse walks by something he can't identify that might be a 'spooky thing' he just bolts because he knows what happens from experience! This is confirmed as the rider again, grabs hold of the reins, tries to regain his seat ad prevent the horse from running as before! We now have a spooky horse that bolts and runs away with his rider at the mere thought of a spooky thing!
Next time we use the Arthur - Burris Side Pull.
A spooky thing appears on the trail. The horse freezes then begins to bolt. The rider grabs the reins and looses balance and pulls on the noseband. Please consider the amount of direct pressure from the riders weight transferred to the soft polyester noseband and then the horse's nose. Now, compare that pressure, or pain in his head to the amount he is used to receiving from a "spooky thing" when ridden with a bit or mechanical hackamore, especially one with a shank which multiplies the pain. The Arthur - Burris Side Pull puts pressure not pain to the horses head. His natural instinct when first spotting the spooky thing is to FREEZE and identify. Well, it was only a white dog running out of the woods or a deer that stepped on a stick when it FROZE to identify you and your horse as a spooky thing. For the horse there is no pain associated with the dog or the deer. He knows the dog which is ignoring him anyway and the deer is a four-legged creature much like himself that he grazes next to in the pastures when the humans aren't around. Does the horse bolt? No. Is the rider immediately able to relieve the pressure on the horse's nose as he regains his balance? Yes. Is the "spook and bolt" over? Yes. How much ground was covered? None. The horse froze.
I remember John Lyons saying at Equus America in Houston this year (2003), that a horse can spook all he wants to as long as he does it standing in place.
The result is a horse that THINKS when he sees new things...he does not REACT TO PAIN and BOLT.
Consider now, this reaction is similar to a horse in the wild or out in the pasture without humans.
He flushes quail as he grazes. He freezes immediately, perhaps freezing in a position from which he stands that will readily allow him to run if he decides it is necessary. His head raises or lowers allowing him to more accurately focus on what are silly birds! He finds no need to run, and again drops his head to graze. What was just described is a natural reaction to fear in nature by a grazer that uses flight for protection from predators.
It also describes how a horse reacts when he is ridden with a Arthur - Burris Side Pull.
Now, lets ride on!
Amy Burris
Less is More - Natural Horsemanship Training
"NO Whips.. NO Bits... NO Saddle... NO Spurs"
Michael Gonzalez in Lafayette, Indiana
When I first began my journey to develop my relationship with my horses, and while searching for my own personal philosophy on horsemanship, I started by getting rid of the very thing that kept me from having good communication with my horse the bit. I found that I did not have the discipline, patience, nor the hands to use a bit in my horses mouth. From the bit I decided to try going to a bosal to give my horses mouth a rest and give us a chance to start over. Now dont get me wrong, a bosal can be just as severe as a bit if used improperly. My horse and I achieved very quick results with the bosal and so we continued our refinement for a little over a year. I then decided that it was time to step down again to test our relationship. I replaced the bosal with a traditional rope halter. This accomplished two things first, the action of the lead rope tied through the Fiador knot to create reins was similar to the action and direction of pressure from a bosal. In other words, the pull and direction came from underneath the chin in an angular line. My horse already understood this because of the foundation we had built with the bosal so we excelled. The second thing was that the rope halter was much lighter and gave a feeling of being freer and not encumbered by a lot of mechanical restraints. This allowed me to soften and refine my hands.
Once again I looked for a change something new to try As I began to start more colts bareback and in halters, I found that I did not have the lateral flexion from a traditional rope halter or bosal, that I could get from a snaffle bit. My whole philosophy at this point had grown into my motto of:
NO Whips NO Bits NO Saddles NO Spurs ..
While searching the Internet, I found the Arthur Burris Side-Pull Rope Halter. This was the answer to my prayers! Why?! Because the AB Sidepull Halter not only functions as a traditional rope halter with a Fiador knot and the extra nose band knots for more control, but it also offers complete lateral flexion with the same directional line of travel as a traditional snaffle bit!!! What this means is that I can use a direct rein with the right hand and the halter will pull from the side of the face instead of under the chin like a normal halter would. There are two hanging pieces of rope with small rings which tend to act very much like slobber straps do on a snaffle/mecate set up. This allows the rider an opportunity to pick up a rein and yet not make any real contact with the horses face creating any unwanted pressure. I call it a supportive rein where you can have the slack out of the reins and be there to support your horse through a maneuver yet still be soft on his face. As the horse offers the slightest try and the smallest change, you can immediately release and the weight of the extra hanging rein attachments will offer the relief of pressure necessary. If you have ever worked with a snaffle bit outfitted with slobber straps, then you will understand what I am describing. The feel is almost exactly the same in your hands. You can actually pick up one rein ever so slightly and watch the horses ears begin to shift back and forth waiting for your direction.
The halter, reins and leads are made out of double braid rope. Very strong yet soft and light. I prefer the reins to be 8 feet in length. This allows me to gather the reins and choose my length for whatever task I am doing at hand. I just loop and gather them much like I would a mecate. I prefer the trigger snaps over the bolt snaps. I like the lighter weight of the trigger snaps. Also, Keitha adds a little piece of leather (much like a mini slobber strap) to attach the trigger snap to the reins in stead of having the snaps braided back into the reins. Because the trigger snaps are weaker than the bolt snaps, should one of them break, you can just untie the mini leathers (water loops) and add one from your local hardware store or even add your own bolt snaps if you choose. There are matching 12 foot lead ropes as well which makes having to tie your horse on the trail a snap, but of course you could always just use the 8 foot reins. The leads come with bolt snaps or brass twist panic snaps.
We just toss our whole rig into a pillow case, tie the case closed, and throw it into the washer to clean. It is that simple.
Keitha is able to customize the halters with just two very simple measurements, and her customer service is absolutely fantastic.
I now use the AB Sidepull Halter in all my natural horsemanship bareback clinics. I have a good following of students that are using the halter as their primary riding tack. I always take some time during the clinics to explain what I use and why I use it. The AB Sidepull always receives the most attention from participants and auditors alike.
From bringing your horse out of the pasture, to basic foundational groundwork, to first ride or one hundredth ride, to arena work or the trail, the AB Sidepull fits the bill and will not let you down. It is that versatile. For me, it has to work in everything that I do with horses from starting two year old colts to trail riding up and down ravines on the trail. By the way, my 4 year old Granddaughter rides both our horses bareback and in the AB Sidepull and she can achieve good solid lateral flexion with it.
I highly recommend it for anyone wanting to de-escalate down from a bit, but still want that same feeling in their hands and same level of control.
A Question and Answer that I thought was very good! kA (added 9-4-04)
I have been pointed in your direction through an inquiry. I am trying to reschool
a 17.3hh 11yr old, who is terribly stiff through his poll, neck and jaw. He
has scar tissue from injuries to his mouth so schooling with a bit is very
erratic as Ii have to take care not to redamage this area, common bitless/
hackamores make him tense up even more through these areas and I am struggling
to encourage him that schooling doesn't have to be painful (from his previous
experience). He is a wonderful jumper but again the problem with his mouth
limits me to the amount I can do as I am always so concerned that his mouth
will be hurting him. I think his central problem is the expectancy of pain
and the need to be schooled more
How exactly do these side pull bridles work?
Will it benefit these types of issues?
I really want to work him well to gain his full potential but at the minute I am so limited and it is so unfair as he loves his job so much!
Thank you in advance
Hi. Thanks for writing.
I assume that you are talking about the AB Sidepull Halter by www.handcraftedjewls.com
(Keitha Arthur) Before I go into this halter, please allow me to take some
time and address some other issues.....
Size, age, previous training, possible abuse...?,
pain, mental and emotional scarring etc., will all have their effect on the
future of his training with you. First, I would treat him as if he is a 3
year old colt and re-start him from ground zero....go back down the line all
the way to letter "A" and bring him back up and focus on fixing
some of those holes that he has in his training. The thing here is to stay
focused. Because he has been through this training, he will progress through
a lot of the elementary tasks fairly easy....do not skip through these....bringing
him back up the line I a logical progressive manner will develop him mentally
and emotionally. This is where he needs his help right now....especially if
you are wanting a relationship with him.
Remember, training is 90 percent mental and emotional and only 10 percent
physical!!!
I would begin with ground work.....I believe
that you are going to need to begin with groundwork and especially with lateral
flexion (LF). Lateral flexion is not just the one rein stop. In fact, while
it is an important component of the one rein stop, the one rein stop consist
of more than just that.....also, good lateral flexion is the key to body suppleness....it
is also the key to good mental and emotional fitness and control. If you are
not familiar with lateral flexion, there are two good articles on Clinton
Anderson's website: http://www.downunderhorsemanship.com/articles.html. I
also have a good basic article with pictures on LF on my site: http://www.lessismorehorse.com/Horse%20Training.htm.
You will also see a pic of me performing lateral flexion with a DRAFT BELGIAN
MULE from the ground and then from the mount using one of the AB Sidepull
Halters.
The thing here is that the lateral flexion
is not so much a physical yield as it is a mental and emotional yield. Some
times a person can get their equine partner to yield physically, but as soon
as they release the head, the equine goes back to the original behavior...or
the equine will flex too quickly and then try to straighten its head and take
slack in the rein....this is because he is performing the flexion physically
and there is absolutely NO YIELD mentally and emotionally. Sometimes you have
to hold it there and wait for them to switch to left brain thinking and soften
their eye and soften the brace in the neck and body.
You cannot do too much lateral flexion. It
is like Pilates Yoga for your horse! The more you do it, the softer they get
mentally, emotionally and physically.
As I stated earlier, treat him as if he were
a 3 year old colt and restart him....leave nothing to chance....I love Winter
time because we dont have the pressures of competitions, shows, camping
trail rides, etc.. Winter time usually slows us down and will force us to
go slower and more methodical. This is a good thing. By the time Spring gets
here and your friends are just starting their Spring tune ups with their horses,
you and yours will be a in a much better relationship and working more by
FEEL than anything else.
By coming back up the line from letter "A", you can stay out of
his mouth and develop the control that you need without having to rely on
bits or other pieces of tack.
As far as the AB Sidepull Halter.....well......I
absolutely love it! My wife and I use them extensively with our own horses
when we train, trail ride, play soccer on horseback, play cowboy polo, etc.
We use them on our Arabians and have absolute control.....let me state this....control
come from training and not a bit or halter.....we have not have bits in our
horse's mouths for 6 years now....and have been using the AB for over a year!
I start colts in them for the first 30 days before switching them to a snaffle.....the
reason.....
Because the AB Sidepull Halter not only functions as a traditional rope halter
with a Fiador knot and the extra nose band knots for more 'control', but it
also offers complete lateral flexion with the same directional line of travel
as a traditional snaffle bit!!!
What this means is that I can use a direct rein with the right hand and the
halter will pull from the side of the face instead of under the
chin like a normal halter or rope hackamore would. There are two hanging pieces
of rope with small rings which tend to act very much like slobber straps do
on a snaffle/mecate set up. This allows the rider an opportunity to pick
up a rein and yet not make any real contact with the horses face
creating any unwanted pressure. I call it a supportive rein where
you can have the slack out of the reins and be there to support your horse
through a maneuver yet still be soft on his face. As the horse offers the
slightest try and the smallest change, you can immediately release and the
weight of the extra hanging rein attachments will offer the relief of pressure
necessary. If you have ever worked with a snaffle bit outfitted with slobber
straps, then you will understand what I am describing. The feel is almost
exactly the same in your hands. You can actually pick up one rein ever so
slightly and watch the horses ears begin to shift back and forth waiting
for your direction.
The halter, reins and leads are made out of double braid rope. Very strong
yet soft and light. I prefer the reins to be 8 feet in length. This allows
me to gather the reins and choose my length for whatever task I am doing at
hand. I just loop and gather them much like I would a mecate. I prefer the
trigger snaps over the bolt snaps. I like the lighter weight of the trigger
snaps. Also, Keitha adds a little piece of leather (much like a mini slobber
strap) to attach the trigger snap to the reins in stead of having the snaps
braided back into the reins. Because the trigger snaps are weaker than the
bolt snaps, should one of them break, you can just untie the mini leathers
(water loops) and add one from your local hardware store
or even add
your own bolt snaps if you choose. There are matching 12 foot lead ropes as
well which makes having to tie your horse on the trail a snap, but of course
you could always just use the 8 foot reins. The leads come with bolt snaps
or brass twist panic snaps.
We just toss our whole rig into a pillow case, tie the case closed, and throw
it into the washer to clean. It is that simple.
Keitha is able to customize the halters with just two very simple measurements,
and her customer service is absolutely fantastic!!! I cant tell you the number
of people who are now riding in her halter...I have about 12 students riding
in them...from Arabians, to QH, to TW mules, Belgian Mules, Morgans, Missouri
Fox Trotters, TWH, Paso Finos and BLM Mustangs.
I now use the AB Sidepull Halter in all my
natural horsemanship clinics. I have a good following of students that are
using the halter as their primary riding tack. I always take some time during
the clinics to explain what I use and why I use it. The AB Sidepull always
receives the most attention from participants and auditors alike.
From bringing your horse out of the pasture, to basic foundational groundwork,
to first ride or one hundredth ride, to arena work or the trail, the AB Sidepull
fits the bill and will not let you down. It is that versatile. For me, it
has to work in everything that I do with horses from starting two year old
colts to trail riding up and down ravines on the trail.
By the way, my soon to be 5 year old Granddaughter rides our horses bareback and in the AB Sidepull and she can achieve good solid lateral flexion with it....and can use it to learn how to operate with FEEL and use direct rein.
My Granddaughter performing lateral flexion proving that it is a mental and emotional yield and not so much a physical fight to get the yield.
Me on a Tennessee Walker Mule using an AB Sidepull
Halter and a lead rope for a mecate....
Most of the pictures on her site are of family,
friends or students who are using the halter....but ....as mush as I love
these halters, they are not the cure all...they are not "fix it"
cures.....the real "fix" comes from you going back down the line
and starting over....trust me...it is worth the effort and time spent.
If you are planning on staying out of his mouth indefinitely, then I believe
that the AB Sidepull will be a worthwhile investment for you. It has been
for us since the first day we received it in the mail.
I hope I have begun to answer your questions.....Please feel free to email
me with any other questions that you may have and I will do my best to answer
you and help you. If you haven't read through my site, please take some time
and go through it. There are some good articles on the Horse Training page....
Good luck...please keep me posted on your progress.....I hope to hear from
you soon...and remember, feel free to email me.....
Keep Your Training Natural...and remember...Less IS More......
Michael
Nice design! I will send a picture of my son on the Standardbred with the bridle. They are cute together.
Thanks!
K. M. Hood
Contact Keitha
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